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| Banda Island Trip-September 25th- October 4th 2008 |
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20 Oct 2008 (685 days ago)
Family Wilkinson arrived a couple of days earlier into Ambon from Makassar- flying into Makassar direct from kuala Lumpur via Airasia. A very good flight! Then to Ambon, just 1 hour 20 minutes with Lion Air.
The runway at Ambon starts about 10 metres from the sea so landing is pretty exciting when you think you are going to end up in the sea. Because it was raining we had a van waiting for us and took an hour long drive round the bay of Ambon to the harbor. If it were dry it would have been 5 minutes in the van and a 10 minute speed boat ride to Tiger Blue in the habour. 
First impressions of Ambon. It is segregated, the Muslims on one side with all the mosques and the Christians on the other with their churches. Extremely lush with heavy vegetation- fantastic greens and a mixture of trees with firs next to mangoes. Extremely dramatic landscape with hills and the harbour. Reminded me of Sydney with its lovely neighbourhoods on slopes on the edge of water. Certainly at night with the lights twinkling, no high rises and no extra bright lights anywhere it was quite beautiful.
Ambon harbour was described by Wallace in 1860 with water clear to 50 metres and an astounding array of fish and coral. He said that he thought this harbour the richest in sea life in the world. This makes it very sad now as the harbour is inky, slightly iridescent with grease and fuel and just full of garbage floating by- plastic bags, polystyrene packs, animal guts, bags of rubbish. When the sun shines bright though there is a hint of its past as the water turns a bright dark blue and you can make out some coral shapes at the bottom.
A very busy harbour with big container ships, metal ferries, wooden boats, small ferries and assorted traditional craft whizzing across it. It has the feeling of a large lake rather than a sea water harbour. Its location is to die for really- really stunning! 
We went up to the Museum at Sewa Lima and found these low tech and totally charming. In the sea life museum there were 3 amazing skeletons of whales. 
This in itself was worth the trip.The history and culture museum further up the hill had great models of scenes, a lovely cave exhibit and lots of local artifacts to look at in glass cases. It was nice to see a few local families enjoying these 2 museums too.
We then took a drive along the island and asked to go to the gateway to Ambon. We were expecting an old dutch Gateway or something to that effect. We ended up at a little bay with big turquoise waves crashing in from the Banda sea, and then worn away in one of the cliffs, a natural gateway. 
The beach was very pretty, all rocks and pebbles and big huge lava rocks. The pebbles were really interesting - all aggregate bonded together by volcanic activity. We picked up a few as souvenirs. 
Ambon harbour offered up the most amazing sunsets and we certainly enjoyed these for a couple of evenings as we awaited the arrival of the Rous Family. 
27th September- Tessa and I met the Rous family at Ambon airport and the tender did 2 speedy trips to Tiger Blue with kids and baggage, and then the adults. We met Tiger Blue as she was making her way out of Ambon harbour- out to the Banda sea and on to Banda. Our journey had started!
Ambon harbour itself was very calm but as we made our way out to sea the waves were up 1- 1.5 metres, slightly confused, so there was rather a lot of rolling. For those of us who hadn't time to get our sea legs this overnight sail towards the Banda's proved a bit uncomfortable. We had 130 miles to go and we expected these kind of seas all the way. A 22 hour sail. We all managed to get to our cabins and into bed- the 2 girls once they snuggled into their cold, comfy beds and cabins, fell asleep and were out of it until late next morning. None of us ate, although I tried as Dedhe had made his lovely Nasi Kuning- but it was asking for trouble really!
28th September- I woke up in my cabin with Tessa and Pippa still fast asleep and snuggled up and looked out my porthole to see land! Sitting and standing was awful, lying was good so it took me a while to get up on deck. We were pretty much there- 3 hours to go and Gunung Api was definitely in sight, standing out against and above the smaller Banda islands. We took in Run and Ai at a distance and as we sailed along and past we saw a whale spout in front of Gunung Api. 
Everyone was on deck, even those of us who had a miserable night despite special anti sea sickness accupressure bracelets, and we were very excited. These islands are so remote and to be honest now, there is really no reason to visit them. There is essentially not a lot there but all of us on this trip were there to get a sense of the history dealt out to these islands, to see their reputable beauty and to check out the amazing reefs. We all wondered if they would be as dangerous as history makes them out to be. And would we find the golden nutmegs? 
As Gunung Api came into closer view so did the lush lush vegetation; the flowing layered angsana trees on its slopes, the dark lava flows, the lovely shiny coconut trees and the blue aqua water on the edge of the beaches. Dramatic, stunning and very very pretty. I was really taken aback by how lush and tropical it was, the trees all swishing in the breeze, deep greens and there in the middle of this big sea- the perfect deserted islands. On the volcano you almost expected to see dinosaurs or pterodactyls to fly by. The frigate birds that flew by every so often added to the prehistoric look of it all. 
As we came very slowly through the narrow straits between Gunung Api and Banda Niera, into Niera bay, we could see the low houses clustered at the waters edge. Pastel colours and red roofs of imposing old homes with columns, and Fort Belgica above the town. Palms and old large trees on the edge of the sea wall hid most of the buildings directly on the water but we could see the main jetty where a big metal boat was unloading goods.
We anchored to the side of the bay away from the town, on the edge of the reef which dropped off to 80 metres depth. We kept Tiger Blue still by taking a rope out from her front and tying her to the shore. We anchored and were quickly approached by a man in a tiny dug out who paddled all the way out to ask us if we wanted to buy his tuna. Unfortunately we had caught a lovely wahu on the line earlier. He paddled away again very happily. 
We went ashore quite quickly to try to pay our respects to Des Alwi, the 'King of Banda', at his hotel on the front. We were told he was having his afternoon nap and could we please come back later. We took a stroll through the hotel and into Niera's quiet streets with the odd motorbike and people strolling about. No one took that much notice of us. We located the homes and museums we wanted to see- Rumah Budaya, Syahrirs House, Christopher Coles House, Hatta's House and we booked dinner for the following night at Des Alwi's Hotel. Prices were negotiated. 
Niera at first impression looks like it had better days. It is shabbier than it is chic but there is an atmosphere of calm and peace over it that is pleasant. The homes in the street are all painted and with Hari Raya Adil Fitri around the corner people were busy cleaning, scrubbing and painting. It is all clean and smart and looked after. There is a Caribbean look to the place, the low level wooden houses with front verandas and columns, pastel painted in colours you would not think matched- purple and green, different shades of purple altogether, yellow, blues and pink, and lace curtains, some in neon colours. The homes all look like they had been grand in the past but now are being cared for with what is available- they have a definite Banda style which is very attractive. We went into a pretty rest house, opposite Syahrir's and here we really saw what has become for me, Banda style. Lots of flowering pot plants all neatly in rows, a big open kitchen with cabbages on the marble top square table, colourful curtains, spotlessly swept floors, an open courtyard and verandas and to finish off the look, a lovely green parrot to say 'Hello!' 
We headed back to the boat and had sashimi, fried fish and chips for lunch and then headed to the little island at the entrance to Niera bay for some snorkeling. Pebble beach with big lava rocks tumbling into the sea and trees to shade us. We all went snorkeling and it was totally enchanting. A lot of fish, lots of different kinds, a couple of big garoupers swimming around. A big range of different corals, hard and soft- what a coral garden should look like, and the coral seemed super-sized, like over fertilised flowers, oozing lushness. Large parrot fish, angelfish looking plump and fertile and as I swam over a little rockery a large moray eel came suddenly up to me which gave me a bit of a shock but he was a nice specimen to see. Also saw lobsters hiding under rocks. Everyone enjoyed this very much- it was a proper undersea wonderland for snorkelers and we couldn't have asked for better.
Got back to Tiger Blue and found fresh crispy spring rolls waiting for us followed by gin and tonics and hot fried cashew nuts. After showers we all adjourned to top deck where we all sat down and looked at the lovely night sky. We were all really lucky to have Matthew on board as he gave us all a lesson in astrology. He had this great laser stick to point to the stars and it was great! We all now know where Venus is, how many moons Pluto has-as we have seen them- seen the Summer Triangle and can identify several constellations. Scorpio was really big and clear across the sky and the Milky Way was stunning- a silver smear across the night. It was fascinating having Matthew talk us through this amazing sky. Most of us had not seen such a clear night sky (Komodo gave us lovely skies too but not like this) and it was a treat to have someone with all this knowledge on board with us.
Supper was comfort food- spaghetti Bolognese, red wine and maltesers. The sounds of the jungle came to us as we ate- frogs, bats, cicadas and then the dull song of prayer coming across from Niera. It was very dark with not much light from town and you could make out each individual homes lights. A great first evening in the Banda's.
29th September- We all slept like logs on the calm, calm harbour and I woke to a gorgeous dawn with blushing skies and a quiet, laid back atmosphere. By 9, straight after breakfast we were off to Niera to start our historical tour. We started at Rumah Budaya, Des Alwi's family house which he has now turned into a museum with a collection of artifacts ranging from old gramophones to nuggets used as money, coins, cannons and chinaware. We bought a few of his books and Tessa got a kora kora boat in a bottle to take away with her. Next door we stopped in Syarir's house and saw some of his personal belongings, like his typewriter, and photos of him looking very suave playing tennis in all whites. Exile didn't seem to bad!
We were met by Ibu Sui- Tamalia's housekeeper(Ibu Sui would show us Tamalia's house a bit later- a good example of a Perkenier's home) who walked with us and got the church opened for us. The church was very interesting. Newly restored and rebuilt, the great old granite gravestones(dating back to the 1700's) were laid in the floor- Dutch names mainly but also a couple of British ones and the carving on these was wonderful. Some of the fonts carved were especially attractive. The new pews were very attractive and Ibu Sui told us not many people used the church now- maybe 10 people she said.
We then stolled on to Fort Nassau which was abandoned because it was strategically too low on the hill, later replaced by the enormous Fort Belgica. All that remains of Fort Nassau are the arched tunnels at the entrance and the exit, and the walls. The walls are dripping in lush maiden hair ferns all looking as if they had deliberately been arranged there by some fanatic landscape designer. Inside the space is slightly overgrown with some of the space used for cultivation of vegetables and sweet potato. There is a worn path through it which is obviously used as a general pathway. As we exited there were nutmeg trees growing on either side of the fort, with flowers and fruit in states of various ripeness, and it was delightful to see them there. All those years ago these trees could only be had here in the Banda's and no where else.
We stopped for cold drinks and then continued to stroll the streets with only the odd motorbike, bicycle and becak, and people strolling on their way to somewhere. Everyone looked fit here- we didn't see any overweight people. We continued along the waterfront area where the old government offices (still used) stand, next to the governors house. Within the walled garden was an old large metal bust of a formidable looking chap his chest covered in impressive medals.. They all stand in melancholy, slightly decayed glory, empty and lonely and waiting for something to happen. Being in front of these properties you cannot help but want to make something happen here- they have style and a phenomenal history- as anyone who has read Nathaniel's Nutmeg can attest too!
We stopped in at Hatta's house and then went next door to Tamalia's Perkenier house. We entered round the back through a little arched doorway and straight into a little tropical pathway and had to push through colourful crotons and lovely variegated ginger leaves, onto her veranda. It was a bit like emerging onto a movie set. A lush little garden, with a couple of perfect nutmeg trees, it was slightly overgrown but with the veranda, totally charming. We had a look at the very simple house, a large open area in the centre section with 2 rooms going off to each side, a veranda on the road at the front, and the garden veranda at the back. With all windows and doors open this house is perfect for the climate, keeping cool and breezy. It was really nice to have been given entry to these houses as it allowed us to conjure up the idea of what home-life was like on Banda during its heyday.
We carried on along the tree lined roads past the prison and then started the climb up the steps to Fort Belgica. On reaching the top we walked into the gateway to be welcomed by shrubs in full flower- a very colourful entrance! All this colour and cheerfulness created a jaunty atmosphere that was in total contrast to what really happened here in the past- all that bloodshed and butchery for control over the nutmeg tree.
Fort Belgica is an impressive fort- solid, large and grey- a pretty hard and empty place. It has been recently restored. We spent about 45 minutes taking in the views over its ramparts- lovely views over Banda harbour, Banda Besar and to Gunung Api. From up here you can just how busy with little boats the straits between Niera and Banda Besar really are, and just how the volcano dominates over everything here. It is always in your view. On the ramparts a young man was selling old coins and lead nuggets he had found. David bought an old coin dated 1858- a hundred years before he was born and Tessa chose an old agate marble. We paid IRP50,000 for both.
We wandered back down through a little kampung with cement pathways, really well kept. There were nutmeg trees, lots of children, teenage school boys in uniform and people in a generally 'cleaning up' mood, ready to celebrate the end of fasting. Colourful pastel windows, bright bougainvillea, men painting walls and boys blowing up empty cans in anticipation of the end of puasa.
We went back to Tiger Blue for lunch of fish, chicken and chips and then went off to Pisang Island for a look and a swim. Lovely clear water and on the side of the ocean, big waves aqua coloured and slightly chalky white tops, pounding into the lava cliffs. We ended up on a beach on the end of Banda Besar where we snorkeled with the current and relaxed under the pandanus palms. David and Wouter went for a dive off the reef. The girls and I went beach-combing and we found that this beach was simply full of 'cats eyes'- the discarded little doors to shells with a swirl on them. We collected loads of them- they were everywhere and then at the lava rock end of the beach we discovered the really big ones- up to 3 inches in diameter- for Tessa these are true treasure! and she and Pippa spent the time until sunset snorkeling in the shallows plucking abandoned cats eyes from the sea! With Gunung Api glowing with the sunset we packed up and went back to the harbour along the straits between Niera and Banda Besar, getting a great view of the Fort and Niera town from the sea. It was from this side that Christopher Cole surprised the Dutch and took Fort Belgica with the minimum effort.
David, Wouter, Beryl and I went for a fish on the tender and trolled along Gunung Api with a view over to Ai and Run. As the sun went down the islands were glided with colour and Gunung Api looked truly magnificent. Her hardened lava flows tumbling into the sea and caves on the cliffs pounded out by the waves- it all looked dramatic especially with the lush vegetation in layers up the mountain. Pandanus, coconut trees, then the acacias stretching their pales limbs out in layers- lots of pattern! No fish though!
We headed back, had our showers and then headed to the hotel for dinner. Seated on the veranda on our arrival was Des Alwi himself. We made our introductions and were immediately invited to watch a film he had made on Banda. We then sat down to the meal prepared for us. There was a lot of food- the best of which was the eggplant with almond paste (the almonds from the Kanari Tree which shade the nutmeg trees), and the salad with almond paste. The potato soup was good too. Unfortunately the bonito was overcooked but the sambal was tasty. We finished off with nutmeg flavoured sticky kuih which Beryl and I found very nice!
After dinner we sat down on the veranda to watch the Bambu Gila(Crazy bamboo) put on by lots of lads and guys. After lots of drumming, heating up of the bamboo pole and incense burning, 7 lads all held the bamboo stick within their forearms. The idea is to tense the arms and then try to maintain your balance. The leader keeps putting incense in their faces to disturb them and with the changes in tension the bamboo takes on a life of its own and everyone on the bamboo gets pushed around rather wildly by the different tensions created by everyone on the pole. It is all slightly bizaar but we did have a go and actually, it was a lot of hard work and I was definitely breaking into a sweat trying to keep my arms holding onto the bamboo. Tessa and Pippa were lifted off the floor of course, because they were shorter than everyone else! We ended the evening with Des Alwi telling us a few stories and a couple of large Bintang beers.
Back on board Matthew took out his laser stick and had us all mesmerised by the night sky again.
30th September- Wake up call at 5.15am. We were all going to climb the volcano. We picked up our guide in the tender and went just across the bay to the path up Gunung Api. The climb started ok through the trees and bamboo and at the first lookout point we were already pretty puffed. There was an amazing view over Banda Niera here. As we carried on it became apparent that it was not going to be an easy climb. The path was narrow, steep and slippery with rounded lava stones rolling your feet out from under you. Basic steps put in had rotted away and we used the vegetation to pull ourselves up. The guide, Tom and the 2 girls were ahead of everyone. It was hard, it got harder and all of us wondered how we would actually get down again. At times it was vertical and suddenly after 2 hours 45 minutes the trees just stopped and it was rocky with stunted tufts of ferns, smell of rotten eggs and we were clambering to the top. It was amazing! We would see sulphury fumes steaming out of the rocks and the rocks we sat on to rest were hot.
We walked on to the edge of the caldera and looked straight down into the cone. Lush vegetation clung to the sides- trees, ferns, staghorn ferns- something out of The Lost World- we all though it was pretty awesome and we were now thrilled that we'd reached the top. We saw a single deer munching on the ferns and as we rested clouds came and swept over us- a welcome coolness. The views over the islands were really stunning and with the low tide, the new moon coming on, the reefs were clearly visible through the clear clear blue and turquoise water. The airstrip on the island and Fort Belgica, Niera town, busy boats were all put into perspective and we could even see Tiger Blue looking so tiny now in the harbour. Ai and Run in the distance and then all around nothing but sea- the whole of Banda from the top of the volcano.
No one was happy about coming back down-slow and slippery and pretty miserable. The girls had nasty slides a couple of times and the sound of crying tugged at us mum's heartstrings as we yelled "Are you OK?'"down the mountain. They did great and with Tom were the first up and first down.
It was bliss back on the boat- cold drinks, hot dogs and burgers, sliced onions and tomatoes, and cold cabins. We all crashed in the afternoon but were back up at 4 to go to the nutmeg plantation in Lonthor, Banda Besar.
We arrived at Lonthor jetty and walked through the village along cement paths. Again, it was neat and colourful and people didn't take too much notice of us. Everyone was busy getting ready for Adil Fitri that night, lights were being put up, kids had had their baths and were in their smart outfits and were playing, ladies were getting their little food stalls ready to sell drinks and snacks for break fast, and there was the sound of hip azan music being played, blasted really, out of very large speakers at a couple of houses. It was a great atmosphere, celebratory, happy and calm at the same time. There were not lots of people shouting or rushing about. We continued through the street and asked for directions to the nutmeg plantation and were sent up a steep flight of steps that made up the main street of the village.
We hiked up these accompanied by well dressed groups of people carrying baskets of food and belongings who all said hello. There was also a very muscly, weather beaten looking man who had a pole on his shoulder with buckets on one end and fish on the other. He carried these up the stairs and then pointed to us which path to take to the plantation. We turned right and as we made our way past neat houses we came to the village well. This was great as there were lots of men- no women- filling up their big buckets and tins and water carriers with water pulled from the 2 wells side by side. One was definitely old with the old bricks visible going all the way down- the original well, and the one next to it, newer, bigger and was made of cement. (I later read that on one battle expedition to Run, heads were brought back of those killed and thrown down the well at Lonthor, and I wondered later if this was the well.)
Ahead we saw the huge kenari trees with their large flared roots like walls, very tall and obviously very old. They had seen a lot go past them. The steps continued up past these giant trees and lots of people were about. As we got to the top we realised that we were entering the graveyard and here, the atmosphere was very special this evening. Families were cleaning the graves of loved ones and sprinkling scented pandan leaves, jasmine and rose petals on top. The scent filled the air and we strolled through, everyone friendly, relaxed and happy to be there. There was a sort of tinkling hush - everyone was whispering and children were sitting alongside graves, helping to clean and lay flowers, people strolled amongst the graves and a sense of well being prevailed.
All around were the nutmeg trees- very dainty pretty trees with fruit hanging off their branches and their flowers giving off scent and then as you looked up at the very lovely sky, the silhouette of the great branches of the kenari trees. It was actually quite magical to be there at this time. We walked on through and out of the other side of the graveyard into the plantation proper where you see all the nutmegs planted in organised rows under the huge kenari trees. Very shaded, cool and really attractive.
We made our way back down from the ridge to the jetty where we all decided to take a ride round Gunung Api and see the sunset over Ai and Run, and once on board Tiger Blue we were well ready for supper. Dedhe produced a light peppery goulash, Mahi mahi steaks with vegetables (beef steaks for the girls as they didn't want fish) followed by the most delicious bread and butter pudding with custard. After this we all crashed out and slept like logs.
1st October- I woke early to see the dawn over Niera, our final morning here. Tiger Blue left Niera harbour at about 7.15 for Pulau Ai. David and I took the tender out to film the departure. The morning was beautiful and with Gunung Api lit up by the sun and Tiger Blue motoring out of the channel it was a breathtaking vision! We could just imagine all the boats sailing in and out there in the 7th Century. it was probably not that different.
On the way to Ai- just about 2 hours- we had breakfast and saw dolphins in the distance. They came up and leaped about in the bow wave for a short while, exciting everyone. We moored at Ai on a deep drop off- again we had to have the front anchor stuck firmly into a large rock on the reef to stop our anchor dragging down the coral drop off. David and Wouter rushed off to dive- it was all too enticing.
The rest of us snorkeled off the boat. This is really the great thing about being here. The snorkeling is unbelievable. The boat is just off the reef and you can jump in and there you have in front of you absolute underwater paradise. The snorkeling here is better than diving in a lot of other places. Big corals, all shapes, lots of feathery corals on the edge of the drop off and again, they look so lush and full and as if they have been deliberately placed to create the perfect coral garden. The underwater terrain is dramatic with a deep deep drop off into slightly sinister blue.
I snorkeled over the reef- it was low tide and the amount of fish around the coral was mesmerising. lots of clicking going on as the fish tucked into coral. We all snorkeled at the edge of the drop off and just floated along here watching big unicorn fish and curious yellow sweet lips who were quite curious and came to have a look at us. There were lovely large shoals, in curtains almost of fusiliers and thousands of trigger fish- all sweeping the drop off.
On the reef there was a huge assortment of fish- all of us had never seen so many different type of fish and all shapes and sizes and they were not afraid which was great. We tried to find them later in out big huge book but so many of them were not there. Lots of pipe fish, shrimp fish, angle fish of all sorts, trigger fish, wrasses, parrot fish. My favourite little bit of the reef was a gorgeous little outcrop I found. Not large at all but all wrapped and snuggled in and about the coral branches and shapes was a large anemone, and tucked all around this were so many clown fish of orange, black and blue- a clown fish nursery. As you backed away the fish would all come out and hover in layers, the smallest babies at the bottom and the larger ones on top- the little dancing swirl of baby black clown fish were absolutely adorable- and as you approached they all backed into the anemone and looked up at you, all snuggled in its bubbly looking tentacles. As the outcrop came down, the surrounding little outcrops were the same, smothered in anemone with clown fish looking up at you. I could have spent all day just floating over this.
After 2 hours we all came aboard for lunch of sashimi and beef udon- absolutely delicious! We had half an hour digestion time and then went back into the water. The tide was up and the reef looked really different. like a huge aquarium. The fish were acting differently. They were all out and about looking relaxed swimming in the deep water at all levels and not hiding. The bigger fish at the drop off had gone and the fish seemed to be doing the equivalent of strolling around.
After about an hour Beryl and I were the last to swim in to the boat and as we did we were surrounded in fusiliers and trigger fish- thousands of them. It was very beautiful and it made us laugh through our masks.
Back on board we persuaded everyone to go for a walk on Ai. We took with us a few plastic balls, drawing books and colour pencils to give away to kids. You got the feeling on Ai that the personality of the island was slightly different to that of Niera and Banda besar. The people seemed a little more aggressive, less laid back and to me, less genuinely friendly. We had 2 guys immediately come up and take up position as 'guides' and they did walk around with us and point us in the direction of graveyard and the fort. The old graveyard is now the rubbish dump. This was such a contrast to the amazing graveyard we saw at Bandar Besar. However, the graves here were Dutch with marble and granite gravestones, some had been smashed, possible the result of the troubles they had here a few years ago. Anyway it was a shame to see and the church was just a ruin.
Fort Revenge has its walls still and inside is overgrown although again, some of the area has been planted with sweet potato. In the grounds here we picked up out of the soil chards of very old, and what would have been very beautiful ceramic pieces. Houses had been built up around the walls and you could get glimpses of the walls. I got the feeling that this left over physical history was not really the history of the people now on the island and so there seemed to be very little connection or value, if you can call it that, to them. We walked by the gateways- old entrances to perkenier houses and properties, all that was left of these walled areas. On 1 occasion I did glimpse inside one of these that was still standing, what would have been a very stylish house, colonial, with verandas and columns but again, faded grandeur and slightly surreal looking, its origin and history not part of the present situation. Pulau Ai has on it a few chalets/home-stays for backpackers and I just felt there was an edge to their attention to us here and obviously, it is not surprising when the tourist trade has been obliterated by the fact that Ambon the gateway to the Bandas is still on the 'no go' list. I personally didn't particularly like it but then, I had the luxury of escaping to Tiger Blue.
However. here on Ai Beryl and I did manage to buy nutmegs, some already smoked and dry and others still with the mace on the shells and sun dried. We managed only to get 2 large handfuls which we shared (and I now have mine in a glass jar and give a few out only to the best of friends- precious as they are!), and a small handful of wonderfully scented cloves. Once we had bought these that was the last we saw of our 'guides' who left us to find our own way back to the jetty.
Wouter picked us up from a very crowded jetty- all the kids seemed to want a glimpse of us- and we swung by Tiger Blue to pick up drinks, ice ,lime, soda and
gin and then we whizzed off round the corner to a deserted beach. We immediately set to work collecting firewood for our bonfire. It was to be an early celebration of Tessa's 11th birthday and Wouter, Dedhe and crew had organised a beach barbeque for us.
We had the fire lit before sunset and Wouter organised everyone's drinks and we sat down with the sliver of the new moon and Venus above it and we were very very happy. The sky behind Ai and Run was lit up orange, pink and turquoise. The girls collected coconut husks off the beach for the cooking fire and Dedhe fed us steaks, fish, baked potatoes and the scrummiest garlic sauce. Tessa and Pippa has built their own little campfire and spent the evening fiddling with it and we all ended up sitting around this watching the bonfire die down. The tide got down low but with the aid of torches and gallant Tuang who pulled us out over the reef to the larger tender in the dingy, we sped back to Tiger Blue through a very dark night and green phosphorescence in the wake. The evening was not over and Dedhe presented Tessa with a gorgeous chocolate cake with candles. We all had more than we said we would and again we all went to bed very happy with the world.
October 2nd - Have woken early again. Anchored at Ai with Gunung Api in the distance, a low layer of clouds puffing up behind her with bright sun behind- beams of back lighting. Tide is coming down and the sea not yet lit up. Threat of rain and sure enough I watched start dark over one half of Gunung Api and make its way across to us, but it did wear itself out and I went snorkeling with David, joined immediately with everyone else. Who could resist? We decided to let the current take us along the reef and so we just floated along. Just on the corner the reef drops down in levels so as you look down and over you can see under the top of the reef, coral and fish hiding and below to more layers of coral. Just stunning! We practically swam into 3 big box fish who hung there looking at us not wanting to get out the way and with the low tide we found ourselves along a wall of reef which was fascinating- finding all sorts of fish hanging in the nooks and crannies on the edge. as we looked up out of the water, lots of the islanders were out on the ankle deep reef with spears and nets, getting what they could. We got picked up by the tender and as breakfast was set on the table we pulled anchor for Pulau Run.
Approaching Run was very pretty, again completely overgrown in lush vegetation, large trees on the ridge. On little Naijalakka joined to Run by a reef, exposed now by the very low tide, loads of people were out and about. It was busy! As we passed by in front of it and the long main island we sailed along the very visible reef and drop off, water so clear and we could see swarms of fusiliers and trigger fish as we hung over the railings. It took us ages to find a spot to drop anchor, it was all so deep. Here again we had to connect the smaller anchor to the reef to stop us dragging. On the reef in front of us lots of local fishermen with small nets and handmade bamboo fish traps were picking their way across the coral. men and children in little dugouts were paddling back and forth.
We decided to go straight to little Naijalakka on which the non-yielding Captain Nathaniel Courthope and his little band of men built a fort and holed up for a few years from 1616 (no fresh water on Run) defending it from the continually besieging Dutch as they waited for the help that didn't come. These poor chaps were eventually slaughtered or drown(depending on who you ask) on the night of October 26 1620 when in desperation, they tried to get back from Niera in a rowboat with apparently stolen supplies.
It was perhaps not the wisest decision on our part to have gone to Naijalakka when it was being overrun by the local population out for the day on their Adil Fitri holiday, and our experience could have been very different. It became very obvious as soon as we got out of the tender that they did not get any visitors at all and as we saw Wouter whizzing back to Tiger Blue on the tender we were cursing that we had forgotten the walkie-talkie!
We hauled our cold box and snorkeling gear to a bit of shade and we had sitting with us, all smoking clove ciggarettes and giggling and coughing, a band of very swarthy looking chaps who thought we were very interesting to look at from 6 inches away. Although they seemed to be very happy, we however, were not. Nonetheless Alex was left reading her book on her own with our stuff, as the rest of us attempted to snorkel. David decided to go back to Alex as he was uncomfortable with her being surrounded by a big bunch of curious chaps on her own and then as the rest of us tried to carry on with snorkeling, lightning and thunder made everything rumble and we all got out of the water anyway. After that we retreated to our patch of shade and whilst the kids and most of our little band walked along the reef and round the island, 3 of us stayed and tried to read whilst being the most interesting exhibit of the day! Matthew was happily reading his booking, lying on his side, whilst young gals, all stifling giggles were inching as close to him as they dared taking pictures on their mobile phones. You had to see the funny side really.
The rest of our little crew on walking around the island followed by a large crowd, were stopped and happily shown a young local albino boy who the happy crowd said was the 'same' as us. We don't quite know how he felt about that but at about this point we all began sending telepathic messages to Wouter- 'Pleeease come and get us!' And he did! We very happily retreated to Tiger Blue and after lunch floated amongst the gorgeous coral gardens that Run had to offer without having to step on land again!
It was a great last afternoon on the Banda's. As we snorkeled, David and Wouter went for a dive and the 2 girls cannonballed off the boat for what seemed hours! David and Wouter emerged absolutely enthralled with the diving off Run as we did the snorkeling. It is just so incredible here and with the massive sudden deep drop offs, the reefs cannot be damaged by bombing as practiced by so many local fishermen in other parts of Indonesia. It is pristine and the coral so healthy with no dead spots. It is paradise.
Pippa and Tessa finished their afternoon by going off with Wiky and Shepti in the little dingy to bottom fish over the reef. They left us waving but then we heard a scream and they were coming back to the boat, all feet up on the sides. A banded sea snake had crawled into the dingy and had slithered onto Shepti's foot. It gave them all a shock but the thing, when prodded with a stick, just crawled slowly up the back and out into the sea. It had a lovely end to to its tail like a peacock feather which made me think it was an eel and not a sea snake( I will check). Excitement over and the girls went back out to the reef where they had to be called back in at sunset. Pippa had caught the only little fish, a coral trout which was served up deep fried later. Pippa throughly enjoyed eating it!
We had another lovely sunset, a glorious last evening and finished with champagne and white wine on top deck. We watched the moon come out and inspected its craters with the binoculars and then had a lovely dinner of of rice , peppers and tuna kebabs- absolutley delicious again. We finished with the rest of Tessa's birthday cake but the finale had to be the 'Gunung Api Booms' that the girls made for us from crushed oreos, their melted cream and bashed up chocolate frogs!
After dinner we all showered and readied for bed so that we could be comfortable in our beds for the sail back. We were all expecting it to be the same as the sail out so some of us weren't thrilled by the coming night.
As it turned out the Banda sea was flat as a pancake and we slept like logs!
3rd October- The sea was so calm it was wonderful! I woke up and saw dawn out of my port hole and got up. made my cup of tea and went top deck. Wouter was up and within 15 minutes we had dolphins alongside. The real excitement came when I saw the first whale heave up about 30 metres from the boat. I didn't quite believe it at first but then we could their spouts scattered about the sea around us in the distance. We were sailing with whales and not just any old whales but huge sperm whales. It was really exciting and as people got up feeling great, everyone was on watch and we were rewarded with one particularly good sighting about 50 metres from the boat where the whale heaved its back out of the water several times, blew mist from his blowhole and then dived, his tail fully out of the water. We could see the whales all the way back to ambon, as their backs came out of the water and glistened, their spouts and the odd tail as they dived. It was lovely to know that they were all here, so many of them making their way in the opposite direction.
All of us spent the last few hours relaxing on deck, beryl and I read our books while sunbathing on top deck, shouting when we saw a whale. We cooled off with a shower every so often on the dive platform at the back. It was a lovely voyage back to Ambon.
We arrived in at about 2.30 and we all got our showers and headed straight to the Commonwealth War Graves. It was just about 15 minutes up the road through traffic from the harbour and we arrived to see enormous raintrees dripping in all sorts of epiphytes. A beautiful garden with lawns at the entrance. The gate was open and we let ourselves in, walked up a rocky roadway past the caretakers house and into the lawns on which lay all the gravestones. It was very moving as we read the private messages on these stones. references to 'our boy', 'loving brother', 'only son' just made you want to weep. Soldiers who die in war zones are always so young and I couldn't help thinking, with sons of 18 and 16 years old, that the thought of having them dead in just a few years was awful. We all walked through the graves, over 2000 young men marked by small stones, taking it all in and looking too at the lovely site they have ended up in. Lots of birds, blossom and butterflies. It was very peaceful. We signed the visitors book and went back to Tiger Blue.
We headed straight for top deck and had our last gin and tonics with a colourful sunset that had painted an arch of cloud and colour over the harbour entrance in the distance. Beryl said that it was calling us all out to sea again. We knew we were back in civilisation again when our dinner was accompanied by ridiculously loud karaoke music emanating from a small ferry quite a way away. Thank fully it moved out of the harbour before bedtime. We retreated to our cool cosy cabins cocooned from the noises of Ambon harbour and slept soundly again.
4th October- We got up early and did some frenzied packing before getting ready for our flight at 3pm to Makassar. We managed to have a good lunch of goulash and pizza before we left and ended the trip fully satisfied. It had been wonderful!
Notes on some costs:
Permits in Banda- aprox USD18 per person- children half price
Guide for volcano- IRP100,000 per person
Dinner at Des Alwi's hotel- IRP200,000 per person
Bambu Gila show- IRP350,000
Nutmeg- IRP75,000 a kilo |
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